Baja: Where Bumpy Roads Meet Gentle Waves

Words by Daniela Schwartz

Photographs by Lukas Olesinski

For two weeks we put life on pause and enjoyed a nomadic surfer’s fantasy as we drove down the coast of Baja. The roads were desolate, endless, and empty. Joshua trees and cacti spanned the horizon; home was worlds away.

As the days went on, our skin grew accustomed to the sunscreen, salt and sunshine. Our hair became matted with wax. Body odor and beer became a lingering, consistent smell. Days unfolded effortlessly as we explored the coast for more swells. 

Eventually, the waves and our current destination would line up. It was then we could slow down and appreciate Baja’s simple pleasures like waking up to a brilliant orange sunrise and a humid breeze. Trucks, tents, and van dwellers became our neighbors as we settled into the campsite. While it had only been a few days, the surrounding faces already felt friendly and familiar. We exchanged stories of the various, sometimes hazardous, routes south and why we came to Baja. Ultimately, everyone had the same reason: find empty waves off the beaten path. 

And that we did. The warm, empty, peeling rights were plentiful. Steep or rolling waves could be found in a one mile radius. It’s no wonder people traveled far and wide to surf here.  We’d share waves until our backs were too burnt and our arms too sore. Afterwards, we’d sit peacefully doing nothing, appreciating our surroundings, as our bodies rested. 

What we experienced may not be everyone’s dream, but for us it was a perfect balance between uncomfort and excitement. The language barriers, non potable water and wrong turns at nightfall kept us in check, while the waves, cheap tacos and the foolhardy community of traveling surfers outweighed any uncertainties. 

Jalama: A Home Away from Home

            Weekend getaways always allow students to forget about the stress of school and remember the simple pleasures that life has to offer. Meeting many new friends during my first year at UCSB opened my mind to the experiences and adventures that I would have never expected. A group favorite is a getaway to the hidden campground of Jalama. Often uncrowded compared to local Isla Vista breaks, Jalama and Tarantulas provide a hidden gem north of Santa Barbara, creating an environment where waves can be shared and beers can be cracked. With pit fires in the sand and no cell service, Jalama is a place where people can reconnect with the pure joys of life, where interaction with others promises the greatest amount of personal growth.

            On a Friday afternoon where heavy clouds loomed over UCSB, my friends and I eagerly awaited the end of the school day as we had reservations to camp at Jalama. Friend groups are interesting in college, people seem to merge together, with friends inviting other friends and so on. What might seem to be a small group at first can quickly turn into a large event with many people meeting each other whose paths might never have crossed. This was the case this weekend: a small army of freshman surfers was about to converge on the small campsites of Jalama, hoping to make lasting memories. After my last class my roommate, two friends and I packed my car, a 2001 Toyota 4Runner that has a taste for adventure and the open road. We stuffed the car full of surfboards, towels, wetsuits, stolen dining commons food, and some chilled brews to help with the post-surf warm up.

            Driving a mere hour up the coast, we follow the PCH until the discrete turn for Jalama pulls us off the main highway and back in time. Reminders of what the California coast looked like years ago seamlessly blur by through the open window. Winding through a picture-perfect California back road, the cracked asphalt provides a unique and rough driving experience. With old California oaks looming over the road, the sun slips through the foliage to fill the car and road with wisps of California sunlight. Breaking through a tunnel of ancient oak trees, we see a valley with a winding road hugging the hillside, disappearing from sight into what we knew to be paradise: Jalama. Over the ridge lies a vast open space filled by the deep blue of the Pacific and empty waves soon to be filled by the college kids in overcrowded cars.

79600024.jpg

            Upon arrival, everyone jumps out of the car and rushes to the dunes that divide the campsites from the beach. Overlooking miles of coastline, you can easily see where the best waves will be found. After a quick scout, another rush occurs, this time back to the car to grab the boards, suit up and paddle out as quickly as possible. Everyone is in unison, zipping up their suits and jogging to the breaking waves. I wait, observing the surfer’s rush. I am not surfing today, instead, I will be where I find peace: behind the lens of my camera. I grab my water housing, fins, and camera. As I begin my own walk to the chosen surf spot, I lock my camera into the housing to make sure that no water will get inside.  Following the excited footprints left in the wet sand by my friends, I go through the most important part of my pre-surf routine. I spit on the port of the water housing and rub it around, creating a protective barrier that will allow water to bleed off the lens so I can capture clear photos. I take a moment to watch where the best waves are being caught, decide on the best place to position myself and brace myself for the imminent ice bath in the cold ocean. From afar, I line myself up for the perfect shot. Everyone is lined up in front of me and eagerly awaits the arrival of the next set. The sun is starting to set and golden light fills the hills and sends reflections dancing across the water. The swell slowly builds momentum on the outside, and some eager surfers scramble to claim the first wave, momentarily forgetting that better ones are to come. Slowly but surely comes the rest of the set, steadily building in size. The report read 2-3ft, however, Surfline never seems to get the size right and the waves are closer to  5 ft, dwarfing my friends as they wait for the right one.

The top of the set comes, and my friend catches the best wave on her longboard, gracefully walking up and down, effortlessly dancing across her board as though it were an extension of herself. I line myself up and start to snap photos.

Then I duck down, dodging the lip of the wave and hope to not be pushed back towards the shore; the current here is strong, and maintaining the perfect position for the photos poses a challenge. The cold water floods my suit and a shiver runs down my spine. I excitedly review the photos I have just captured but struggle to concentrate on the screen of my camera as the waves keep rolling through.

            Jalama is more than a campsite for me and my friends. It is a place where we can forget about the routine of weekday life and connect with one another around a campfire and in the lineup. Jalama is a place where people come together from all around but can connect with one another and reflect on what makes us human. Time can be spent enjoying the simple pleasures of life, connecting with others and making memories to last a lifetime. Time becomes irrelevant and the worries of life outside the ocean fade away. The true magic of Jalama is not just the surf, but the unique way it brings people together and allows for a getaway from the hustle of life surrounded by friends, old and new, that matter most to you.